D.I.Y Reel Repair

So, I bought a True Temper 923C with a beautiful, broomstick of an ocean rod at a local flea market. Unfortunately, as is the case with a lot of vintage, large level wind reels, it casts about as smoothly as granite falling through a clogged drain pipe. I.e. it basically doesn't.

In an attempt to remedy the problem, I took the old girl apart.

Why Take Apart Your Reels?

Reels get gunked up with mud and water as you use them. They'll start working less smoothly and if parts malfunction, it could cost you a big fish. We are, after all, all about getting those big fish!

More importantly though, there's been a trend in American manufacturing to make breakable, cheap things. When it comes to fishing reels, that means using a bunch of cheap components to make the cheapest reel possible. While that might be good for getting children into fishing (I mean, who doesn't love a fifteen dollar dock demon), it's not good for fishermen. I want gear that will stand up to years of abuse and gear that I can repair if something goes wrong. It's more environmentally friendly and it's more fun because I can have a more personal connection with my equipment. It also ends up being cheaper to buy a two or three dollar part rather than replace a twenty dollar reel every three to four months. 

Basic Parts to Know Going In

Conventional reels, especially older ones, are fairly simple. If you have an inkling of mechanical knowledge, it's not hard to figure out what does what, but sometimes, it takes a bit of puzzling.

The main thing is don't lose any parts. If you put your reel back together and you have extra parts, you did it wrong. So, when you get set to take a reel apart, clear out a nice big space, put down some paper, and lay strips of tape down where you can put the parts in the order that you took them apart. It's a small thing, but it makes a huge difference.

Here are some parts you'll find in almost every conventional reel (i.e. not a spinning or spincast reel).

Tension Knob: This is the little piece on the side of your reel that controls how quickly your spool spins. If it's set too slow, you won't be able to cast. If it's set too loose, you'll get bird's nests and tangles in your line. Usually, it's on the opposite side of the reel handle and often, more minor parts are contained in that side of the reel (like the level winding cogs).

Anti-Reverse: This is a very, very important part. It usually looks like a little metal tab (beware reels that have plastic anti-reverse as they are prone to break and break often). It will often be attached to a spring of some kind. Its function is to keep your reel handle and the spool, from spinning in reverse. If your anti-reverse is broken, your drag won't work correctly, or you'll have to constantly keep your hand on the handle to keep fish from ripping out line uncontrolled.

Drag and Drag Washers: These are usually part of the main cranking mechanism. Drag works by having a washer or a series of washers, that let the spool "slip," and give out line. You can "tighten," the drag by turning your drag knob (or more common a five star shaped knob) that pushes down on the washers so they don't rotate. If your drag isn't functioning, you'll want to remove the washers, clean them with warm water and a towel (or whatever non-corrosive cleaner is recommended), and lightly lubricate them with fishing reel lubricant. Don't over-lubricate them. They are, after all, meant to put pressure on the fish.

Brakes and Magnets: Many rods use magnets and various styles of brakes to slow down spool speed automatically towards the end of a cast. I'm not very familiar with the different ways of adjusting brakes, but it's good to know what they are so you don't go monkeying around with them and ruining one or losing a part. Old style ones will be on the end of the spool (usually on the opposite side of the handle) and will have two poles with two little weights that move outward and slow the spool as they spin. Modern bait casters have a much more sophisticated system that I haven't messed with.

Star Drag: This is the adjustment knob for your drag. Don't lose it, yah dingus.

Ordering Replacement Parts

Getting the right parts if something is broken is really important. A couple websites I like are mikesreelrepair.com and ereplacementparts.com. If possible, you should get ahold of the schematics because they'll have a numbered code for the part, which is what the part manufacturers use on their sites.

Don't Give Up!

I thought this project would take a couple hours tops. It took me all day. *oi*

I had to assemble and reassemble the reel six or seven times until I got it right. Now, however, I can rest assured that my reel is clean and ready to battle a thirty pound blue cat...that is, if I could actually catch one.